bookmarks: Rome, where to lay your head in the eternal city

Where should we stay in Rome? This city has become a jungle of ‘where to sleep’ options trickier to navigate than Piazza Venezia at rush hour, so I spend most of my time avoiding this question. Whilst booking, airbnb and co. have brought us travel hungry 21st century humans incredible choice at the swipe of a screen, they are also to thank for the wild price based competition happening … Continue reading bookmarks: Rome, where to lay your head in the eternal city

a rome list for hunters and gatherers

I’ve been asked quite often recently about whether a Roman version of a charity shop actually exists.  The answer is no, kind of, in a way, yes. Charity shops are my idea of the perfect equation.  Old things are handed on, making room in cupboards for new ones.  The thrifty, like me, get to rummage about, finding that perfect French label in an Oxfam shop … Continue reading a rome list for hunters and gatherers

the paper table cloth guide to dining in Rome

A writer I do not know personally, but whose writing I very much like for its directness, recently wrote of a Roman trattoria; why can’t we have more of this unpretentious shit in Sydney?  She hit the nail on the proverbial head because Roman food is, on the whole, very simple, and the environment in which it is served very basic, and I love it that … Continue reading the paper table cloth guide to dining in Rome

spinach and ricotta gnocchi

Years ago a friend gave me Elizabeth David’s biography and in a week’s reading ED was transformed from trusted cooks’ companion to flesh and blood woman of adventure living in an era decidedly more romantic than our own.  Aside from the voyeuristic element; the tales of her smoking while she cooked and her famous spats with lovers (she was so much cooler than Julia Childs) her writing … Continue reading spinach and ricotta gnocchi

to shop or not to shop

If a city, especially one like Rome, is a great outdoor museum, then shopping is one of the (legitimate) ways of exploring it.  Lexically speaking to do the shopping or fare la spesa is a needs based activity, consisting mainly of a long list stuffed into your back pocket (or left at home on the kitchen bench) and a slightly unpleasant haul through the nearest supermarket.  Certainly it becomes … Continue reading to shop or not to shop

Rome picks

Ecco my list of Rome picks.  It is not exhaustive, nor is it complete or fail safe.  Being the tourist mecca that it is, Rome is not without it’s gastronomic pitfalls.  Roman food is essentially very uncomplicated; most dishes rely on two or three ingredients, and everything is carried by the essential seasonal produce.  Very Roman: Carciofi (artichokes – winter, spring), Fave (broad beans – spring), Puntarelle … Continue reading Rome picks