La Tuscia is the ancient land of the Etruscans that stretches between southern Tuscany, northern Lazio and Umbria; a volcanic landscape of rolling hillsides, vines, olives and towns crumbling from their cliff-top perches.  The Etruscans were the sophisticated people who proceeded and were subsequently engulfed by the early Roman republics. They cultivated grapes and built towns – Tarquinia, Tuscania and Vetulonia are particular examples – and filled … Continue reading itineraries. treasure hunting in the Tuscia

Latteria – from latte, means a place that sells milk, making it the Italian equivalent of a milk bar back in the day when milk bars sold milk and a few other milk related products. Over time Roman latterias morphed into bars (that sell coffee – but that’s another interesting story) or little grocery stores, and there are still plenty of gems from the 1950’s around … Continue reading more than just milk

The Italy that I love, that I inhabit, that I feel content to be bringing my children up in, is what I call everyman’s Italy.  It is above all an accessible Italy, where the best things in life are free (or at least cheap); a world made up of rambling public parks and bustling markets, of boisterous small town festivals and homely trattorie.  A world far away … Continue reading ten.9 the art of simple

Green is a winter vegetable around these parts, or in other words, so many winter vegetables are green.  And when I call them winter vegetables that is because they are.  Only.  As in only in winter.  Not a broccoli in sight around here over the warmer months, not even in the most shady of supermarkets. Greens of very shade fill the market stalls in the … Continue reading ten. 8 eat the season, or what Italians do with vegetables

What I have learnt from the Italians on baking and tradition Everyone is baking. In Lewes Dan is baking Rachel’s pangiallo while up in London Rachel is drowning strands of saffron to colour the same recipe, which she learnt in Rome but which she now probably makes using notes from the very same Dan, her friend and baking mentor.  Dan is reminiscing about all things baked in … Continue reading ten.7 something old something new