It was a funny kind of summer in Italy (last year). Cooler than normal (no complaints here), punctuated by tragic headlines (making it feel not quite the right moment for holidays), but given a sort of rhythm by the patter of day to day life in a small town. I often wonder whether there is a spike in sales of real newspapers in Italy in … Continue reading zucchini season, how we shop, and a recipe for lombrichelli pasta
Quick, it’s artichoke season, hurry to the market. There are bulbous deep purple Romanescos, paler green but equally plump globes, and pretty tulip shaped violette. There are baskets, piles, and crates. Truckloads parked on street corners selling ten for a song. The first time I cooked artichokes they were an unmitigated disaster. I had chanced upon them at the Victoria Market, and probably just the … Continue reading How to peel an artichoke and other stories.
At the heel of the Italian boot, Puglia is a land of wild beauty where the stark rocky coastline seems to fall into the sea; a land of ancient olive groves and carpets of flowers, where the light dazzles against the white of the Southern baroque piazze. As sure as the sea in Puglia is of the clearest turquoise, the food that comes out of the kitchens all over the region is … Continue reading Artisans & Antiques; PUGLIA trips 2019
May 2018. It is mid afternoon when we pull into the farm hotel. A deep calm blankets the property and there is no sign of anyone apart from a French couple that pad across the courtyard toward the pool. The tractors have been shut down for the day and the farm workers have gone home, but the air is alive with insect and bird life, … Continue reading bookmarks: roads less travelled and unique places to stay
Farro is one of those ingredients that magic a meal out of a few vegetables. It is wonderful in summer; with punchy tomatoes and fresh herbs or alongside the nicoise family of tuna, capers and olives, but also great in winter with pumpkins and brassicas. We eat it a lot. Long faces are occasionally pulled when the smaller people find out it is farro instead … Continue reading Ancient grains for every season
Since I started writing here back in 2014, I have noticed that readers like information. So here I am at the start of a new year, and a new decade, with some practical pointers for Rome (and some free opinion). This year I will turn fifty. Surprisingly I woke up on the first of January feeling kind of excited about it, as if flipping from … Continue reading when in Rome – tips for travelers
Where should we stay in Rome? This city has become a jungle of ‘where to sleep’ options trickier to navigate than Piazza Venezia at rush hour, so I spend most of my time avoiding this question. Whilst booking, airbnb and co. have brought us travel hungry 21st century humans incredible choice at the swipe of a screen, they are also to thank for the wild price based competition happening … Continue reading bookmarks: Rome, where to lay your head in the eternal city